Chapter 11

Caliper and Rotor Issues

This is the one chapter you should never need to read, but don't stop now, this is the last chapter.

In two years we haven't found a lot of problems with calipers or rotors. As long as you pay attention to the placement of any washers when you remove and reinstall the caliper in order to bleed it, the original factory alignment should stay intact. If, for some reason, you lose this adjustment, the mounting bracket has slots on the chainstay side that allow you to change the angle of the caliper relative to the rotor and ovalized holes on the caliper side that allow you to move the caliper closer to or further from the axle.

If the caliper itself rubs the rotor, loosen the 5 mm horizontal mounting bolts and move the caliper forward until it misses by the thickness of a fingernail.

If the caliper gets cocked sideways, simply loosen the 4 mm vertical mounting bolts, apply the brake (which will align the caliper) and then, without releasing the lever, tighten the bolts. You’ll need a friend to help you with this.

If the rotor itself is not running true, re-torque the 4-6 rotor attachment bolts. If this doesn’t solve the problem, gently massage the rotor by hand. Often, during expansion and contraction the rotor will get hung up on the rivets and will “click" back into position when you massage it with light pressure. If, through an accident, the rotor becomes bent, heavy-duty hand massage may save you from having to buy a replacement. In our experience, a nearly straight rotor becomes straighter with use.

Broken rivets, thankfully rare, can be replaced at the factory.

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